The Banarasi weave, a timeless fashion staple during the festive and wedding seasons in India, has long been associated with grandeur. Whether it’s a deep red silk Banarasi saree adorned with shimmering golden zari or a statement dupatta elevating a simple kurta set, a Banarasi creation is synonymous with festive glamour. The appeal of Banarasi lies in its regal and luxurious aura, making it a favorite choice for traditional wear.
In recent years, however, Banarasi has extended its influence into menswear as well. This traditional textile, known for its intricate handwoven patterns, now graces a variety of men’s garments such as kurtas, safas, shawls, bandhgalas, and sherwanis. While it is widely thought that Banarasi was solely a part of women’s wardrobes, historical evidence suggests otherwise. During the Mughal era, when the Banarasi weave came into prominence, emperors themselves wore garments made from this exquisite textile.
Banarasi Weave Adapts to Modern Fashion
Today, Banarasi continues to evolve, undergoing a bold transformation as designers experiment with modern interpretations of the weave. Western influences are now evident, with Banarasi textiles being used to create modish silhouettes, such as corsets, tops, pantsuits, and even short dresses. This new direction has expanded the weave’s reach, presenting it as a global fashion statement.
“Banarasi has long been celebrated for sarees, dupattas, and kurta sets, but today’s shift towards modern silhouettes is making it a global statement,” says Khushi Shah, creative director of Shanti Banaras, a label that is known for its authentic Banarasi handloom creations. Shah’s upcoming collection will blend traditional techniques with contemporary designs to cater to a broader, international clientele.
Designer Aditi Gupta, whose creations are featured at Carma Ambawatta, believes the shift toward modern designs is less about Westernisation and more about innovation. She credits the younger generation for embracing and reinterpreting Banarasi weaves in new, experimental ways.
“Today’s shoppers, especially the younger generation, are looking for pieces that blend heritage with functionality. They want garments that make a statement but also reflect their individuality and contemporary style. As a result, we’re seeing more demand for unique interpretations of Banarasi in experimental silhouettes, whether for festive wear or everyday luxury,” Gupta tells India Today.
Banarasi in the Spotlight at Fashion Week
While these modern versions of Banarasi garments retain the essence of their traditional craftsmanship, their silhouettes have undergone significant reimaginings. This modernization was particularly evident at Lakme Fashion Week 2024, where a variety of designers showcased fresh takes on the classic textile.
For example, designer Monisha Jaising featured Banarasi high-slit and asymmetrical skirts, paired with dazzling blouses, in her collection. Riddhima Kapoor Sahni, who was the showstopper for Jaising, walked the ramp in a strapless Banarasi gown, and Jaising herself sported a sleeveless Banarasi crop top for the final bow, reinforcing the trend’s chic, modern appeal.
Delhi-based designer Amit Aggarwal is also contributing to the evolution of Banarasi fashion. His collection, “The Banarasi Edit,” focuses on upcycling traditional Banarasi textiles and experimenting with modern interpretations of classic draping styles.
The trend has also received a nod from celebrities like Priyanka Chopra, Kriti Sanon, and Saba Azad, who were seen sporting various versions of Banarasi gowns at the Nita Mukesh Ambani Cultural Centre inauguration in Mumbai last year.
More Designers Embrace the Trend
The growing popularity of Banarasi’s modern makeover shows no signs of slowing down. More designers are incorporating this iconic textile into creations beyond the traditional saree or lehenga. Gaurika Rai, the CEO of the textile label Warp n Weft, has launched a collection that embraces modern women of traditional India with Banarasi mini dresses, maxi dresses, and corsets. This collection, in collaboration with House of Asra, is a celebration of fresh, contemporary silhouettes made from the traditional weave.
“Naturally, people are always eager for something new, and it’s time to introduce a fresh fashion statement that redefines traditional spaces—one that upholds the authenticity of exquisite Banarasi textiles while embracing a modern allure. Launching a Western-inspired collection caters to those seeking more than the classic saree, suit, lehenga, gharara, or floor-length skirt for special occasions,” says Rai.
In addition to dresses and corsets, the Banarasi textile is also making its way into more casual, everyday wear, including jumpsuits, trousers, and pantsuits. These designs bring the allure of Banarasi into the realm of professional attire, with simple pairings such as crisp white shirts and Banarasi brocade pants, making it easy to incorporate the traditional textile into a modern wardrobe.
“These new silhouettes enhance the versatility of Banarasi textiles and open doors for international markets. By doing so, the Banaras weaving cluster also gains new opportunities to grow and thrive. When approached with respect for the craftsmanship and original weaving techniques, these designs can bridge generations, celebrating heritage while evolving to meet modern tastes,” adds Nishant Malhotra, CEO and founder of WeaverStory.
Banarasi’s Enduring Allure
Although the traditional Banarasi saree and lehenga continue to hold an untouchable place in the world of Indian fashion, this modern twist on the classic textile brings a fresh and exciting option for those seeking contemporary elegance. As designers experiment with Banarasi in new forms, they are opening the door for the textile to evolve into a versatile fabric that can be worn for both special occasions and everyday luxury.
For those who are looking to update their wardrobes with a touch of tradition that feels fresh and new, the Banarasi modern twist is an option worth considering. This year, as the Banarasi wave continues to move beyond sarees and lehengas, more global fashion enthusiasts are embracing this evolution, keeping the craftsmanship and heritage of Banaras alive while making it relevant to contemporary style.
The timeless beauty of Banarasi weaves continues to captivate new generations, and as the fashion world continues to innovate, this iconic textile shows no signs of losing its place in the spotlight.
