India’s iconic butter chicken holds a special place in the hearts and taste buds of people both at home and abroad. This succulent dish, featuring tender chicken enveloped in a vibrant blend of tomato, cream, butter, and spices, has been savored by a diverse array of individuals, from truck drivers at rustic roadside stalls in rural India to international figures like Jackie Kennedy.
Now, however, butter chicken finds itself at the center of a legal dispute revolving around its origins. This contentious issue pits the grandsons of the two founders of Moti Mahal, the restaurant believed to have first introduced butter chicken in India, against each other. Monish Gujral, the grandson of one of the founders, asserts, “The suit has been filed to protect my family legacy,” seeking to refute claims made by the other grandson regarding the dish’s invention. The gravity of the matter is underscored by the family’s submission of a voluminous 2,752-page document supporting their stance.
Delving into the dish’s origins unveils a narrative steeped in history. The founders of Moti Mahal, Kundan Lal Jaggi and Kundan Lal Gujral, hailed from Peshawar, a city now in northwest Pakistan. Their journey to New Delhi was catalyzed by the tumultuous events of Partition in 1947, which saw the subcontinent divided along religious lines. Amidst this upheaval, they established Moti Mahal, where butter chicken quickly became a star attraction, drawing admiration from patrons such as the renowned chef and actress Madhur Jaffrey. She reminisces fondly about the distinctive allure of the sauce, describing it as “creamy, melty, and delicious,” a heavenly accompaniment to naan and pickled onions.
The restaurant’s fame soared, attracting luminaries including India’s first Prime Minister, Jawaharlal Nehru, and international dignitaries like Jacqueline Kennedy. However, the absence of a written recipe for butter chicken from the founders left room for interpretation, leading to divergent claims regarding its inception. The Gujral family, after selling Moti Mahal in the 1990s, launched their own franchise, with signage at their outlets attributing the invention of butter chicken to Gujral. Meanwhile, the Daryaganj franchise, founded in 2019, asserts that Jaggi was the mastermind behind the dish.
Tensions escalated when Jaggi’s grandson reiterated this assertion during a television appearance, prompting legal action from the Gujral family. Despite efforts to trace the dish’s origins back to Peshawar, where Moti Mahal initially operated, conflicting accounts muddy the waters. Residents recall the restaurant and its signature butter chicken, yet differing recollections regarding the chef responsible add complexity to the narrative.
The debate extends beyond mere attribution, raising questions about the dish’s cultural roots. Nilofer Afridi Qazi, a chronicler of Pakistani culinary traditions, notes that butter chicken isn’t widely embraced in present-day Pakistan, suggesting its origins might lie elsewhere. Some speculate that its creation catered to British tastes, given Peshawar’s history as a British garrison town. The dish’s rich, buttery gravy and boneless chicken align with preferences associated with non-Indian palates, hinting at potential colonial influences.
The parallels between butter chicken and Britain’s chicken tikka masala further complicate the narrative. While the exact origins of the latter remain contentious, its evolution mirrors that of butter chicken, catering to British preferences for saucy, flavorful dishes. Lizzie Collingham, a culinary historian, posits that both dishes emerged in response to British culinary expectations, underscoring the interconnectedness of culinary traditions in the colonial era.
Despite the debate surrounding its origins, butter chicken has undeniably become a culinary phenomenon in India and beyond. Revered for its comforting flavors and versatility, it embodies the warmth of home-cooked meals and serves as an entry point to non-vegetarian cuisine for many. Pushpesh Pant, a food historian, acknowledges the dish’s elusive history, likening its invention to the age-old question of who discovered fire.
In essence, butter chicken transcends its contested origins, resonating with diners as a symbol of culinary delight and cultural fusion. Whether enjoyed in upscale restaurants or savored as takeout, its enduring popularity underscores its status as a beloved culinary treasure, cherished by all who partake in its savory embrace.
