In recent days, New York City — and the surrounding Long Island area — has been a hotspot for iconic brands and new interpretations of American fashion. Renowned labels like Ralph Lauren and Tommy Hilfiger aimed to revive timeless styles, while brands like Alaïa and Off-White, usually seen in Paris, made their way to New York to showcase their perspectives on American fashion.
New York Fashion Week, which opens the global fashion month, has been at a turning point in recent seasons. While cities like Milan and Paris dominate with must-see shows and high-profile guest lists, New York still brings out its share of celebrities, especially as the event coincides with the U.S. Open. This overlapping schedule draws stars to both the tennis courts and the runways.
Ralph Lauren kicked off the excitement with an early, off-calendar event in the Hamptons on Thursday. He recreated his famous Polo Bar experience for an audience that included First Lady Jill Biden, singer Usher, and actors Jude Law, Tom Hiddleston, and Naomi Watts. Meanwhile, the following night at the Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum, Alaïa reunited legendary supermodels Naomi Campbell, Linda Evangelista, Amber Valletta, and Stephanie Seymour in the audience, while Kendall Jenner led the models on a striking walk through the museum’s iconic spiral design. However, the biggest moment of the night was when Rihanna stunned everyone by appearing in a dazzling crystal mesh outfit by the French luxury house.
Sunday brought more star power with Off-White’s first-ever runway show in New York, helmed by creative director Ib Kamara. The waterfront basketball courts in Brooklyn served as the perfect backdrop for the event, which attracted stars like Zayn Malik, Mary J. Blige, Camila Cabello, and model Alessandra Ambrosio. Notably present were Olympic athletes like water poloist Ashleigh Johnson, who was joined by rapper Flavor Flav, her team sponsor this year. Also in attendance was 2024 Olympic gymnastics all-around gold medalist Sunisa Lee, further blending fashion and sports in an exciting way.
But it wasn’t just Olympic stars in the audience — some made their surprise runway debuts. Jordan Chiles, another standout from the U.S. gymnastics team, walked in Kim Shui’s show, wearing a silk floral leotard-inspired outfit complete with a cape. Sprinter Noah Lyles also stepped onto the catwalk at Willy Chavarria’s show, where he modeled white athletic shorts and armbands bearing the word “América,” representing the immigrant take on the American Dream.
Willy Chavarria’s collection was an eclectic mix of baggy, belted khakis, sleek ties, lapels, and utilitarian menswear skirts. The designer also launched a new sportswear line in collaboration with Adidas. His show’s political undertones were unmistakable, set against a backdrop of the American flag and accompanied by a performance of the Spanish classic “Querida.” As a nod to American values, guests received booklets from the American Civil Liberties Union, which included the full U.S. Constitution — a reminder of the nation’s founding ideals.
Chavarria wasn’t the only designer reflecting on America’s current political climate as the 2024 election approaches. The surrealist fashion house Area marked its 10th anniversary by teaming up with Tinder to support and donate to the national abortion rights campaign, Bans Off Our Bodies. Area’s latest collection featured garments adorned with handprints and fingerprints — a symbolic representation of the ongoing battle for women’s rights in the United States.
“We really think about and reflect on what is going on in the world and put that back into our clothes,” Area’s creative director Piotrek Panszczyk explained to CNN backstage.
Prabal Gurung, a Nepali American designer, also infused his latest collection with a message — but one of optimism. Inspired by Vice President Kamala Harris’ presidential campaign, Gurung wrote in his show notes that he wanted to create a line that was “a powerful affirmation of matriarchy, femininity, and the future.” His collection, which featured trailing scarves, sheer bustiers, and hand-draped sari-inspired pants, was a study in movement and grace. The outdoor runway, set near New York’s City Hall, lent a breezy atmosphere to the display, and there was even a playful nod to Harris herself with an embroidered coconut tree mini-dress.
“I’ve always believed in the power of women, of feminine-leaning ideas,” Gurung told CNN ahead of the show. “I’ve always believed that they saved me… and I know they can save the world.”
New York Fashion Week, which has sometimes struggled to maintain its global relevance in recent years, seems to be gaining fresh momentum. With a combination of classic American brands like Ralph Lauren and younger, more daring labels like Off-White, the event showcased both the enduring appeal of traditional American fashion and a willingness to engage with political and cultural issues. Whether it’s drawing attention to women’s rights, immigration, or the immigrant’s view of the American Dream, the designers in New York this season used their platforms to speak not just through fashion, but also about the state of the world.
In the face of rising global tensions and a fraught political landscape, American designers are finding ways to make statements that resonate beyond the runway. While New York Fashion Week may still be finding its footing compared to its European counterparts, its ability to merge fashion with cultural commentary gives it a unique place in the industry. The week was not just about showcasing clothes but also about telling stories, sharing ideals, and reflecting on where the country is headed.
With stars in attendance, surprise runway appearances by Olympians, and collections that weren’t afraid to make bold statements, this season’s New York Fashion Week was a celebration of both the past and the future. As the fashion world continues to evolve, New York remains a city that knows how to balance its rich legacy with the need for innovation and relevance. This year, the designers and their creations proved that American fashion is as diverse and multifaceted as the country itself — a blend of tradition, modernity, politics, and pop culture all rolled into one dynamic showcase.
