Pope Francis’ Mass in East Timor Draws Record-Breaking Crowd, Echoes Historic Visit of John Paul II

An estimated 600,000 people—nearly half of East Timor’s population—gathered on Tuesday in a seaside park for Pope Francis’ final Mass. The event was held on the same field where St. John Paul II prayed 35 years ago during East Timor’s struggle for independence from Indonesia. The enormous turnout reflected the deeply Catholic nature of this Southeast Asian country and the respect its people hold for the church, which supported them during their fight for freedom.

Francis delighted the massive crowd, staying at Tasitolu park well into the evening, circling the field in his open-topped popemobile as the screens of their cellphones illuminated the night. “I wish for you peace, that you keep having many children, and that your smile continues to be your children,” Francis told the crowd in Spanish.

While papal Masses have drawn larger numbers in more populous nations like the Philippines, the turnout in East Timor, a country of 1.3 million people, was believed to be the largest ever in terms of proportion to the national population.

The park, a vast sea of yellow and white umbrellas—reflecting the colors of the Holy See flag—sheltered attendees from the intense afternoon sun as they awaited the Pope’s arrival. Water trucks intermittently sprayed the crowd to provide relief from the heat. Dirce Maria Teresa Freitas, a 44-year-old who traveled from Baucau, was one of many who arrived hours early. “We are very happy that the pope came to Timor because it gives a blessing to our land and our people,” she said, having arrived at 9 a.m., more than seven hours before the Mass started.

Tasitolu park, where the Mass was held, has a deep historical significance for East Timor. It is believed to have been a place where Indonesian troops disposed of bodies during their brutal 24-year occupation, during which as many as 200,000 people were killed. Today, it is known as the “Park of Peace” and features a large statue of John Paul II, commemorating his historic 1989 visit. During that visit, John Paul II openly criticized Indonesia’s human rights abuses and expressed solidarity with the Timorese faithful. His words of encouragement came at a crucial time during East Timor’s fight for independence, which it achieved in 2002.

Following in John Paul II’s footsteps, Francis’ visit came at a time when East Timor remains one of the poorest countries in the region, with 42% of its population living below the poverty line, according to the U.N. Development Program. Despite the nation’s economic challenges, its Catholic faith runs deep, with 97% of the population identifying as Catholic, a legacy of Portuguese colonialism that dates back to the 1500s.

At the conclusion of the Mass, Cardinal Carmo da Silva, the Archbishop of Dili, reminded the crowd of the historical significance of John Paul II’s visit. “John Paul’s visit marked the decisive step in our process of self-determination,” he said. “Francis’ visit to the same place marks a fundamental step in the process of building our country, its identity, and its culture.”

Although official estimates predicted attendance at 750,000, local organizers reported that approximately 600,000 people had gathered in Tasitolu park and surrounding areas by the time the Mass began. Many had lined up before dawn, and by the time Francis arrived, the roads leading to the park were jammed with cars, trucks, buses, and even pedestrians walking down the middle of the street. The temperature reached 31 degrees Celsius (88 degrees Fahrenheit), compounded by humidity of over 50%.

“For us, the pope is a reflection of the Lord Jesus, as a shepherd who wants to see his sheep,” said Alfonso de Jesus, who had also traveled from Baucau, East Timor’s second-largest city. “So we come to him with all our hearts as our worship.”

De Jesus, 56, had also been present for John Paul II’s 1989 Mass, which was remembered for a riot that erupted just as the event was ending. As police clashed with a group of young men shouting for independence, John Paul II watched as plainclothes Indonesian officers wielded batons to break up the disturbance. Some of the men had unfurled banners reading “Fretilin Welcomes You,” referencing the independence movement that had fought against Indonesian rule since East Timor was annexed in 1976.

The 1989 Mass, attended by 100,000 people, ended with four women being hospitalized after being crushed in the chaotic crowd. Amnesty International later raised concerns that around 40 people had been detained and tortured, though Indonesian authorities denied this. “The Mass was very neat and orderly with tight security,” De Jesus recalled, “but it was marred by a brief riot at the end of the event.”

The 1989 event became a key moment in bringing international attention to East Timor’s independence movement. At the time, reports quoted Dili Bishop Carlos Ximenes Belo, who played a significant role in drawing attention to the plight of the Timorese people. Belo would later go on to win the Nobel Peace Prize along with then-foreign minister and current President José Ramos-Horta for their efforts in peacefully resolving the Timorese conflict.

 

However, Belo’s legacy has been tarnished in recent years. In 2022, the Vatican revealed that Belo had been sanctioned for sexually abusing young boys. The former bishop now lives in Portugal, where the Vatican has blocked him from contacting East Timor. Although his role in East Timor’s history has been widely recognized, his name was conspicuously absent from any official mentions during Pope Francis’ visit. Despite this, many ordinary Timorese people still hold him in high regard for his contributions to their independence.

Sister Maria Josefa, a nun from Cape Verde who has lived in Dili for five years, commented on the sensitive subject, saying that Pope Francis was right to address the issue of abuse during his visit, even if he did not mention Belo by name. “His words of compassion were necessary,” she said.

Francis’ visit, with its massive turnout, once again underscored the significant role the Catholic Church continues to play in East Timor. His message of peace and hope, delivered on the very ground where Timorese blood had been shed decades before, resonated deeply with the faithful, marking yet another milestone in the country’s journey of rebuilding and reconciliation.