The striking blue houses of Brahmapuri in Jodhpur, Rajasthan, have drawn travelers from around the globe for years, symbolizing the city’s unique heritage. However, these iconic homes are slowly losing their distinct blue hue and charm, raising concerns among locals and historians alike.
Brahmapuri is nestled at the base of the famous Mehrangarh Fort, constructed in 1459 by Rajput ruler Rao Jodha. This ancient fortified area, sheltered by the fort’s imposing shadow, is recognized as the old city of Jodhpur. The distinguishing feature of Brahmapuri has always been its azure-colored houses, although, according to Esther Christine Schmidt, assistant professor at Jindal School of Art and Architecture, the blue color likely wasn’t introduced before the 17th Century.
These blue houses have long been a marker of Jodhpur’s identity. Despite modern developments over the past 70 years, the area continues to be the heart of the ‘Blue City,’ says Sunayana Rathore, the curator of Mehrangarh Museum. The term ‘Brahmapuri’ itself translates to “the town of Brahmins” in Sanskrit, as it was established as a colony for upper-caste Brahmin families. The color blue was adopted as a symbol of purity and piety within the Hindu caste system, setting them apart from other social groups.
Rathore draws a comparison to the blue city of Chefchaouen in Morocco, where Jews fleeing the Spanish Inquisition in the 15th Century settled. Much like Brahmapuri, the Jewish settlers in Chefchaouen painted their homes, mosques, and public offices blue, a color believed to represent divine skies in Judaism. The blue tint of both cities became more than just a religious or cultural statement; it also served practical purposes. In Jodhpur, for instance, the mixture of blue paint with limestone plaster cooled the interiors and helped keep the homes pleasant in the hot climate. Furthermore, the striking color began to draw tourists eager to experience Brahmapuri’s unique architectural beauty.
However, in contrast to Chefchaouen, Brahmapuri’s blue houses are now fading. Various factors have contributed to this shift. Historically, blue paint was made from natural indigo, a crop that was once abundant in Rajasthan, with Bayana town being one of India’s major centers for indigo production. Over time, though, indigo farming declined due to its detrimental impact on the soil. Additionally, increasing temperatures have made it difficult for the blue paint to regulate indoor temperatures effectively, leading many residents to switch to modern cooling appliances like air conditioners.
“Temperatures have risen gradually over the years,” notes Udit Bhatia, assistant professor of civil engineering at the Indian Institute of Technology (IIT) Gandhinagar. Bhatia, who studies resilience infrastructure and climate change, mentions that a trend analysis conducted by his institute shows that Jodhpur’s average temperature has climbed from 37.5°C in the 1950s to 38.5°C by 2016. The blue paint, once a solution to the intense heat, is no longer as effective. Furthermore, Bhatia highlights that blue paint traditionally contained copper sulfate, which acted as a pest repellent. This antifouling agent was a popular component in paints during the 20th Century, but newer materials have replaced such elements in modern homes.
Urbanization is another contributor to the fading blue hue. As Jodhpur expands, newer building techniques, which prioritize materials like cement and concrete over lime plaster, have replaced traditional methods. These modern materials do not absorb blue pigment as well as lime, further contributing to the diminishing use of blue in Brahmapuri. Bhatia remarks that while urbanization isn’t inherently bad, it often leads to the abandonment of older, well-designed systems that complemented the environment. He adds, “Yesterday, if someone was walking down an alley in Jodhpur with blue homes on either side, and today they are walking down the same alley where the homes are now painted in a darker colour, even the lightest breeze will make them feel hotter than what they felt earlier.”
This phenomenon, known as the heat island effect, amplifies the impact of rising temperatures. Darker-colored buildings made from cement, glass, and concrete reflect heat back into the environment, worsening the heat’s effects. This is in stark contrast to traditional lime plaster homes, which would have kept the interiors cooler.
For some residents, the shift away from blue is driven by practical considerations. Aditya Dave, a 29-year-old civil engineer from Brahmapuri, mentions that his 300-year-old family home remains mostly blue. However, the cost of maintaining the blue color has increased dramatically. “Repainting houses blue would cost around 5,000 rupees ($60; £45) up until a decade ago, while today, it would be more than 30,000 rupees,” he explains. With rising expenses and scarce indigo, many residents opt for more affordable alternatives, such as tiled facades that don’t require frequent repainting. Dave himself chose tiles when he built his new house in Brahmapuri five years ago, emphasizing cost-effectiveness over tradition.
The gradual disappearance of Brahmapuri’s blue homes is a disappointment to tourists and heritage enthusiasts alike. Deepak Soni, a local garments seller who has collaborated with authorities to preserve Brahmapuri’s blue identity, feels that the city is losing an essential part of its heritage. “We should feel embarrassed that when someone comes looking for the homes that formed the identity of our city, they don’t find them. So many foreigners compare Jodhpur to Chefchaouen. If Chefchaouen has managed to keep their homes blue for centuries, why can’t we?” he asks.
Soni has been actively working to reverse this trend. In 2018, he negotiated with local authorities and communities to save the blue heritage of Brahmapuri. His efforts include raising funds from Brahmapuri residents to repaint the outer walls of 500 homes blue every year. Since 2019, he has convinced nearly 3,000 homeowners to return to the traditional blue for their homes’ outer walls and roofs. “So that at least when someone takes a picture in Brahmapuri, the background appears blue,” he explains.
Currently, Soni estimates that roughly half of the 33,000 homes in Brahmapuri remain blue. He is working with local officials and lawmakers on a plan to apply lime plaster to more houses, enabling them to be painted blue once again.
Soni believes that preserving Brahmapuri’s blue heritage is not just about aesthetics but about pride in the city’s history. “Why will people from outside Jodhpur care about our city if we don’t care about its heritage, and do something to save it?” he asks.
For Jodhpur’s residents and tourists alike, the fading blue walls of Brahmapuri signal a deeper challenge: how to maintain cultural heritage in the face of modernization, rising costs, and environmental changes. Whether the blue city will regain its signature hue remains uncertain, but efforts to preserve its charm continue.