On a typical Tuesday evening, a crowd gathers outside an emerald green storefront in New York City’s East Village, eager to secure a table at Bungalow, the latest culinary creation by renowned Chef Vikas Khanna. Lauded by critics, food bloggers, and social media influencers, the restaurant has achieved something rare: resounding praise from the South Asian diaspora.
Diners offer varied descriptions of the food, calling it “fusion” or “fancy Indian food.” However, Khanna sees it differently, explaining, “It’s traditional Indian cuisine that has been reimagined.”
This reinterpretation of Indian food is deeply rooted in Khanna’s extensive travels across India and the broader South Asian region. Reflecting on his journey, he shared, “I’ve been an obsessive traveler throughout the country since 1991. From working in Delhi, Agra, Mumbai, and Kathmandu during my college training to writing travel books and hosting TV shows, I’ve just loved understanding and experiencing India through travel. It all helped me bring diversity to Bungalow’s menu.”
Each dish on the menu tells a story inspired by these travels. For instance, his anarkali chicken tikka incorporates pomegranate in three ways: as a marinade tenderizer, in the garlic and chili paste, and in the glaze. The inspiration came from a visit to Jammu, where he encountered a chicken curry made with pomegranate molasses. “It blew my mind. I’d never had such tender chicken,” Khanna said, describing the profound impact of that experience.
Khanna’s menu acts as a culinary map of India, offering tributes to specific regions and their unique flavors. The yogurt kabab draws from his time in Indore, Madhya Pradesh, while the white peas guguni pays homage to Cuttack, Odisha. Chicken amrit, his version of butter chicken, celebrates the flavors of his hometown, Amritsar, Punjab.
One standout dish, and Khanna’s personal favorite, is the spiced roasted pineapple inspired by a temple visit in Udupi, Karnataka. This dish is prepared with intricate detail: the pineapple is pan-seared to order, while the accompanying South Indian spice-infused coconut curry is made tableside. “People go crazy for this dish,” Khanna said, noting its immense popularity, even surpassing butter chicken in sales. The preparation, which takes two days, is a labor of love. “The smell of the fresh coconut makes this dish stand apart,” he added.
Having lived in New York for 24 years, Khanna has witnessed the evolution of Indian cuisine in the city, transitioning from a takeout option to Michelin-starred acclaim. He played a pivotal role in this transformation, serving as the chef at Junoon when it earned its first Michelin star in 2011.
Reflecting on his favorite South Asian restaurants in New York, Khanna praised Angel in Jackson Heights, Dhamaka, Semma, and Sarvana Bhavan. He also expressed admiration for chef Hemant Mathur’s contributions to Indian cuisine through his ventures such as Chola, Chote Nawab, Dhaba, Sahib, Malai Marke, and Saar Indian Bistro.
Despite his culinary triumphs abroad, Khanna holds his roots close to his heart. He described the best meal of his life as one he had at the Golden Temple in Amritsar, Punjab. “That is the foundation of what I learned as a chef and what I experiment and express,” he said. Khanna added that the prasad served there would be his choice for a last meal, emphasizing its spiritual and emotional significance.
Among his many travels, Khanna holds a special fondness for northeastern India, a region that surprised him with its culinary depth. Yet, his two favorite food cities remain Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh, and Kolkata, Bengal. “I was moved to tears by the cooking in these cities,” he shared, highlighting the emotional connection he feels with their rich culinary traditions.
Outside of India, Khanna was profoundly impacted by his visit to Paro, Bhutan. “There’s something about the culture and the people being so generous,” he reflected. He equated generosity with great cooking, noting, “While I’ve seen everything — I’ve been to most of the Michelin stars in Paris and Tokyo — nothing moved my soul like what happened to me in Bhutan.”
When exploring new places, Khanna seeks guidance from chefs and food writers but often finds that locals offer the best recommendations. Recalling his early days in New York in 2000, he credited a cab driver for introducing him to Punjabi Deli, a hidden gem in the East Village.
Fast-forward over two decades, and it’s now his own restaurant that cab drivers recommend. “Everyone really loves that place,” one driver remarked while passing by the bustling Bungalow. “I haven’t heard one bad thing. You should try it.”
Bungalow not only showcases Khanna’s mastery of Indian cuisine but also encapsulates his lifelong journey of culinary discovery, blending tradition and innovation in a way that resonates deeply with diners from all walks of life.
